Waves: Motion Without Transport

A stadium wave circles the ground while every fan stays in their seat. That trick — energy travelling through stuff that doesn't — runs half of physics.

lesson 1 of 3 in this unit

Builds on: 2.1 Energy: The Quantity That Only Changes Costume

Same idea, other course:⚡ Spark: Filters — circuits that sort signals by this same frequency idea

What actually travels

Drop a pebble in a pond and rings race outward — but a floating cork only bobs in place. The water does not travel; the disturbance does, handed from neighbour to neighbour, carrying energy without carrying material. That is a wave, and it is why you can be knocked over by surf that stayed offshore all day and hear a voice whose air never left the speaker’s lungs.

Two body plans:

  • Transverse — the medium moves across the travel direction: a shaken rope, water ripples, light.
  • Longitudinal — the medium moves along it, as squeezes and stretches: a pushed slinky, and — the important one — sound, which is pressure ripples in air.

Three numbers, one law

Wavelength λ — metres from crest to crest. Frequency f — crests per second, in hertz. Speed v — how fast a crest travels. They are locked together:

v = f·λcrests per second × metres per crest = metres per second

The catch that makes this law useful: speed belongs to the medium, not the wave. Sound does ~343 m/s in room air whether you whisper or shout, squeak or rumble. So when a source raises its frequency, the wavelength must shrink to compensate — f and λ trade off on a fixed budget. Concert A (440 Hz) rides on 78 cm waves; a bass drum’s 60 Hz spans nearly six metres.

One vocabulary, everything wavy

The same three numbers describe ocean swell (λ ≈ 100 m, leisurely), audible sound (17 mm–17 m), and radio — your Wi-Fi router works at 2.4 GHz, λ ≈ 12 cm. Learn the grammar once and every wavy phenomenon in the rest of this course — sound, light, even the quantum world — is a new accent, not a new language.

Count the seconds to the storm

Light reaches you almost instantly; thunder plods along at 343 m/s — roughly a kilometre every three seconds. Flash, count, divide by three: kilometres to the strike. You have been doing wave physics since childhood.

⚗️ Lab — The Wave Machine

A driven rope with dials for frequency and medium — and a marked bead that tells the truth.

  • Raise the frequency and watch the crests crowd together: v is fixed, so λ must shrink.
  • Switch to a faster medium at the same f — the wavelength stretches instantly.
  • Watch the red bead: it only bobs. The wave travels; the rope does not.
1.0 Hz
v = f · λ
1.0 × 12.00 = 12 m/s
Speed belongs to
the medium, not the source
What travels
the pattern — the rope stays home

Work it by hand — 0 / 2

No multiple choice here: compute the value and type it. Suffixes like 2.5k or 20m are understood; answers within ±2% count.

1. Concert A is 440 Hz and sound travels at 343 m/s. What is its wavelength, in metres?
2. Thunder arrives 9 s after the flash (v = 343 m/s). How far away was the strike, in metres?

Check your understanding

1. A cork floats on rippling water. As the wave passes, the cork…

2. Sound is a longitudinal wave. That means the air…

3. A source doubles its frequency. In the same medium, the wavelength…

4. What sets the speed of a wave?